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Houston Museum Presents First U.S. Retrospective of Swiss Jeweler Bernhard Schobinger's Visionary Work

July 15

The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (MFAH) is preparing to unveil a groundbreaking exhibition, “Going Underground: The Jewels of Bernhard Schobinger,” marking the first comprehensive U.S. survey of the renowned Swiss artist's career. This retrospective, which commences on September 3rd for a four-month period, challenges conventional notions of jewelry by presenting 53 unique creations spanning from 1968 to the present day. Schobinger's work is celebrated for its subversive and thought-provoking approach, integrating unexpected materials and questioning established values within the realm of fine adornment.

Bernhard Schobinger, born in Zurich in 1946, has consistently pushed the boundaries of what constitutes jewelry. His artistic journey is characterized by a deliberate departure from traditional precious metals and gemstones, embracing an eclectic array of found objects. Imagine adornments crafted from antique fishing tools, hooks, and spinners, or even wedding rings recovered from the depths of Lake Zurich. His pieces also incorporate fragments of metal and asphalt salvaged from the streets of late 1970s New York City, alongside salvaged glass, nails, and saw blades. These unconventional components are thoughtfully combined with more traditional elements like gold and rose quartz, creating a powerful dialogue about societal perceptions of worth and beauty.

The upcoming MFAH exhibition aims to immerse visitors in Schobinger's distinctive artistic universe, where the boundaries between art, craft, and social commentary blur. The collection on display draws from both prominent private holdings and the museum's own acquisitions, offering a comprehensive look at the artist's evolution and enduring impact. To further enrich the visitor experience, a scholarly catalogue will accompany the exhibition, featuring essays from the curators and Schobinger himself, providing deeper insights into his creative philosophy and the context of his works.

Curators Cindi Strauss and Elizabeth Essner emphasized Schobinger's profound engagement with artistic movements such as Dada and Concrete Art, highlighting his embrace of punk's disruptive ethos. They describe his works as intricate assemblages where the mundane and the precious coexist, thereby challenging established hierarchies of value in jewelry design. This approach not only redefines aesthetic norms but also prompts viewers to reconsider their own definitions of preciousness.

The Schobinger exhibition will be housed on the second floor of MFAH's Nancy and Rich Kinder Building. Complementing this unique showcase, the museum will host a "Perspectives on Contemporary Jewelry" symposium on September 26th. This symposium will not only delve into Schobinger's revolutionary contributions but also coincide with another significant MFAH exhibit, featuring the work of German jeweler Dorothea Prühl, further solidifying Houston's position as a hub for contemporary jewelry artistry.

This exhibition offers a rare opportunity to explore the transformative power of jewelry beyond conventional expectations. Schobinger's creations serve as a testament to the idea that artistry can be found in the most unexpected places and that true value often lies in the narrative and meaning imbued within an object, rather than solely in its material worth. His work encourages a reevaluation of what we adorn ourselves with and the statements such adornments can make.

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