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David Candaux DC1 Platinum Art of the Tourbillon: A Refined Reinterpretation

May 25

David Candaux, a distinguished independent watchmaker, has unveiled a new limited-edition timepiece, the DC1 Platinum Art of the Tourbillon. This creation revisits his initial DC1 model, infusing it with refined materials, a darker color palette, and intricate finishing techniques. While preserving the core architectural elements that define the DC1 collection, such as the distinctive asymmetrical case and the innovative inclined flying tourbillon, this platinum rendition offers a profoundly transformed character. The piece represents a fusion of traditional craftsmanship with advanced engineering, embodying Candaux's personal vision for haute horlogerie.

Hailing from Le Solliat in the Vallée de Joux, David Candaux is part of a celebrated lineage of watchmakers. His journey includes significant contributions to complex projects at Jaeger-LeCoultre and collaborations with renowned industry figures before he established his own brand in 2017 with the introduction of the DC1. This latest iteration, the DC1 Platinum Art of the Tourbillon, pays homage to its predecessor while elevating its aesthetic and tactile qualities. Its striking presence is largely due to the use of platinum for the case and a sophisticated black onyx for the dial, creating a watch that is both visually captivating and technically impressive.

The new DC1 model maintains its recognizable features, including the unique asymmetrical case, the signature inclined flying tourbillon, an off-centered time display, and the discreet retractable “Magic Crown” located at 6 o’clock. These elements, integral to the DC1 series, remain unchanged, ensuring continuity with the collection's design ethos. However, the selection of platinum for the case and the distinctive dial materials significantly alter the watch's overall personality, lending it a heightened sense of luxury and exclusivity.

Crafted from 43mm platinum, the case, with a thickness of 10.02mm (12.9mm including the crystal), offers a notable increase in weight and density. Despite the inherent challenges of working with platinum, particularly for intricate finishes involving steep transitions, polished curves, and sharp edges, Candaux insists on entirely hand-polished surfaces. This meticulous approach results in a finish that is not only richer and brighter but also conveys a more substantial feel, reflecting the exceptional artistry involved in its creation.

The case design features horizontal symmetry paired with vertical asymmetry, gracefully tapering from 6 to 12 o’clock. A sloped sapphire crystal, enhanced with tinting and an anti-reflective coating, complements the descending structure of the dial. The “Magic Crown” remains a beloved feature of the DC1, drawing inspiration from the mechanics of a retractable ballpoint pen. This patented system, composed of 31 parts, allows the crown to deploy and retract via a pressure-activated mechanism, disappearing flush into the case when not in use to maintain the watch's clean lines and balanced symmetry.

A major highlight of this new model is the dial, which undergoes a significant visual transformation. Unlike earlier versions that featured textured gold surfaces and a brighter appearance, this edition showcases a central plate made from mirror-polished black onyx, a mere 0.2mm thick. This choice creates a much more dramatic and intense visual composition. The flanges, which elegantly frame the domed, faceted opal time display and the tourbillon, are meticulously crafted from hand-finished 18k rose gold. Black pad-printed numerals and a minute track, along with hand-beveled and polished 18K white gold hour markers at the cardinal positions, complete the intricate dial. Time is indicated by hand-polished, rose gold syringe-shaped hour and minute hands. A small titanium hand in an aperture at 12 o'clock indicates the power reserve, complemented by a central seconds hand.

The inclined flying tourbillon positioned at 9 o’clock continues to be the mechanical hallmark of the DC1. Angled at 30 degrees, this regulator was conceived by Candaux to enhance the tourbillon’s practical chronometric function in a wristwatch. By tilting the escapement, the cage traverses a wider array of positions during operation, including those encountered when the watch is resting flat, thereby improving its accuracy across various orientations.

The intricate mechanism of the tourbillon remains a testament to Candaux's engineering prowess. The cage, crafted from black anodized titanium, completes one rotation per minute and appears to float within the movement’s architecture. Candaux employs a specialized micro-arc oxidation process to achieve the intense black finish, which is integrated directly into the titanium rather than being a superficial coating, ensuring durability and a striking appearance.

Powering this exquisite timepiece is the in-house developed, hand-wound calibre H74, meticulously crafted in Le Solliat. Consistent with previous David Candaux watches, the movement incorporates titanium bridges and plates, distinguishing Candaux as one of the few independent watchmakers to utilize this lightweight yet robust metal as a structural component. The movement itself is inclined by 3 degrees within the case, further emphasizing the cascading architecture visible through the sapphire caseback. Despite its modern construction, the finishing of the movement adheres to traditional techniques, featuring hand-polished bevels, recessed angles, circular graining, and the brand’s distinctive “Côtes du Solliat” decoration. Gold chatons and engraved gold plaques further underscore the artisanal quality of the calibre.

The David Candaux DC1 Platinum Art of the Tourbillon is presented on a black rubber strap with a textured finish, secured by a Velcro closure and featuring a quick-release system. This exclusive timepiece is limited to just eight units, with each priced at CHF 248,000, underscoring its rarity and exceptional craftsmanship.

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